@ Dave McLaughlin - If you want to make cleaner cuts, you could invest in a scroll saw, or a coping saw.
I have a Dremel Motosdaw but keeping it straight is a challenge. The finished cut is still not as good as a milled out cut with a rotary bit.
Also hard to do circular holes with it too.
I might have to built a custom unit. Plenty of parts here in Indonesia to have a go with.
Certainly was a mad rush, I was at my closest Aldi for the opening, but they only had 3 and I missed out. I’ve since tried another 8 stores, but they had all sold out minutes after they opened the doors. Who knew 3D printers would become so popular!
Have you seen the indiegogo for that? Still open for backers. At $159.
[url]Monoprice Mini Delta:Affordable Starter 3D Printer | Indiegogo
Yup! I was order #31 this morning
Order #415 this afternoon.
Cool. Will be interested to hear what you think.
I may hold out for an A8, both for the fun of building it (which IIRC you’ve already done), and for the larger build area.
Bugger. US shipping only
I’ll admit it, I looked too…
Geeetech is currently assembled but is binding in Z direction. Need to have time to figure out whats the problem, if I’m lucky that might be tonight…
@ Brett - The X axis is not straight. Make sure the Z height is the same on both motors.
Bit the bullet today and ordered this.
The <80mm Z clearance fits nicely with the 60mm enclosures I use and this comes with the additional 4th axis for doing round parts.
That looks like a good machine, and a great price!
I use a Modela MDX-20 for my box cutouts. Including the 4th-axis it cost me around $7,000
Yours looks more capable and easy to use with 3rd party software, having G-Code instead of RML-1 is nice.
I don’t see where the “water cooled” comes in though, it is specified in the header but I can’t see any mention in the specs or the “what you see is what you get” photo!
yeah I know that it’s the most likely cause. To start I checked the squareness of the build platform to heated bed to X smooth rods, they’re all even heights so I don’t think that’s it, but am going to go back and manually adjust Z height lead screws to get it into the position that gives least resistance to hand turns and readjust from there. About to start actually, as I just came here to check in after dinner and after my work is done
Z axis smooth rods. Pulled them out, moves like butter. Put them back, binds like a sticky pile of something. Replaced the stock ones with some decent ones and it’s better, not fixed. Now suspect the next contributing factor will be the lead screws not being straight. That will be harder to deal with… Could also be related to the couplings, and I might try to find some tubing to try out something that will give a little more flex. One guy with the same printer printed up a wobble mod you can see in his vid here How to level and prep the print bed on the Geeetech Aluminum Prusa I3 - YouTube
That’s really interesting. I wonder if it can hold up to cutting some aluminum.
It will need a better spindle motor for that. Something with high speed.
The one that comes with it is not powerful enough and is not water cooled even though the title says so. I got clarification and that was why the price was lower. You should really be using a coolant when cutting aluminium anyway so would need to make some modifications to handle that. Bit messy.
I think it might handle those cast aluminium boxes well enough though as that stuff is pretty easy to cut. I’ve ordered tungsten carbide milling cutters.
@ Dave McLaughlin - Use a sharp carbide cutter, and any speed can cut aluminum. Need cutting oil though. WD40 seems to work for some people.
Yip, WD40 works well when drilling the stuff or using a hole cutter on it.
Last time I had some Al cut they just used water. I think lubricant is really optional for Al. It’s more about cooling.
You know how to get it to Indonesia…