… and, thanks to ransomhall, who is just about the nicest guy I’ve ever encountered, here’s one assembled and working:
This time I kept my mouth shut, and used annotations. I figured you guys already listened to me ramble enough
… and, thanks to ransomhall, who is just about the nicest guy I’ve ever encountered, here’s one assembled and working:
This time I kept my mouth shut, and used annotations. I figured you guys already listened to me ramble enough
Looks great! Very handy board.
Things I’d change for version two:
[ulist]The holes for the ZIF socket are just a TINY bit too small. It was a pain to get the socket in.
The RESET and LOADER buttons could be SMT. It would make the routing a bit simpler, I think.
I’d move the buttons so they weren’t quite so close together. Maybe one on the left side, one on the right side.
The VBAT jumper is pretty close to the regulator.
Speaking of the regulator, it probably should be of the SMT variety.
At the risk of making the board more expensive (which shouldn’t be a HUGE issue as most people probably wouldn’t need lots of these things), I’d probably make it a bit wider so I could fit more label information for the pins (which pin is TX and which is RX, for example).
The board should probably have a jumper that disables the regulator if you use a module into which you’ve installed the onboard regulator setup. Right now, if you did that, things might not be so happy.[/ulist]
Awwww, gee, thanks.
All very good points, particularly the last one about the onboard regulator. I’m still waiting for a couple of parts (I thought I had) to get mine going. So are you working on modifying the board design for v2 or am I?
I was thinking this would make a great kit. If there is interest, I can do another DorkBotPdx run and get a part order ready for v2. I could also assemble a few without headers and include your choice of male, female, right angle, etc.
For those who might want a more permanent install on a bigger PCB like the one above, I’ve found DIP40 sockets work really well with standard male header pins. Snug enough to stay put with even a modest amount of vibration (that claim has not been rigorously tested), and also easily replaceable.
That’s one sexy board. Good job!
Looks great. Well done. Feel free to add this to “community offers” on wiki.
Yes, most supply houses have ZIF sockets in the $20-$70 category, versus $4 at sparkfun. Know where mine is coming from !
OK, the work for V2 is done (probably). I made these changes:
[ulist]I made the holes for the ZIF socket a couple drill sizes larger. This should make it significantly easier to get those wide, flat socket pins in there.
The RESET and LOADER buttons were moved apart a bit, and moved away from the power header a bit.
The VBAT jumper was moved away from the regulator just a tiny bit.
The board is 5mm wider. This allows me to fit better label information for the pins (SCL/SDA as well as PB6/PB7, for example.).
The 3v3 regulator is now SOT-223 instead of TO-223. Smaller, cheaper, lower-profile. Great.[/ulist]
I didn’t make the RESET and LOADER buttons into SMT, because, in fact, it would make the routing harder (more VIAs, anyway…). They’re not bad to solder, regardless.
I didn’t add a jumper that disables the regulator. It is my (possibly grossly mistaken) belief that if one raises the output of the regulator above the input by very much, damage will result. I can’t think up a clever way to disable the regulator via a single jumper. I’d gladly take help or advice in this area.
The wiki has been updated with the new design files, updated BOM, and the picture of the populated board.
V2 boards arrived today. I’ll update the wiki and community offers later this weekend once I’ve got one put together.
I’ve got 4 of these available. Details on the wiki: