@ Brett, @ Blue Hair Bob:
How about interface to Belkin WeMo http://www.belkin.com/us/Products/home-automation/c/wemo-home-automation/
Make touching the hot lines their problem…
And since it is WiFI, it seems like this would be a software development…
Yes, i agree, but I thought you like a challenge 
I have several Wemo Switches I use - they work fine. If I was going to look at a controllable AC switch, I would look at
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Smartphone-cell-phone-controlled-wireless-relay-switch-Lazy-Bone-Android-WiFi-/221204412036?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3380cf7684
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221195691431&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
Here is the Dimmable version
I recently bought one of these Thermal Array Sensors…
For $60 you get a high-resolution 16x4 thermal array and a simple I2C interface. I can share my driver for it.
(This works with a supply voltage of 3.3v and consumes 9mA)
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@ untitled looking at that reminded me that BBQ season is coming up (not like it really ever ends here), but perhaps there are some sensors related to the art of BBQ that might be handy (other then the existing Bolt module, which reminds me I need to get some of those).
I would need a phase controlled modulator module.
The goal would be to control the speed of a 230V AC motor as it is used for a water heating circuit pumps.
The interface could be i2c or spi or optionally a analog output of the SoM.
A PWM output would not be a good interface because the high phase of the signal must be synchronized with the AC zero point.
It would also be nice to be able to chain multiple modules with a master and multiple slave modules. Only the master would need to have the i2c/SPI controller and zero pint detection.
The Pump I have has a maximum of 90 Watt (0.4 Amps) at 230 Volts 50Hz.
About using a PWM signal as interface.
The module would need to have a dig out for the zero detection.
Then the SoM could synchronize the PWM out with that and simply output a 100Hz PWM with different duty cycles.
This signal would trigger a Triac.
Unfortunately my electrical knowledge is a bit low to design this on my own.
But I could write driver, docs, … for it.
0 to 20 MA output module with hart modem
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Please share, and a module for this would be cool.
That supports solar charge and interface to read all stats. And supports several types and sizes of batteries.
I’m not sure if 4.3 solves the problems with the cellular module but currently it’s bloody awful!
A cool modern mobile module with 4g, lte or whatever to ensure low power, high data rate and continuous connection. Of course a cool driver that just works.
Let me also pose the question in a slightly different way.
Have you seen or used an Arduino shield to do a certain function, but there isn’t an equivalent Gadgeteer module available to do this? Has one of your friends given you a hard time because they could do something easily that you couldn’t?
Those types of situations are the ones I think we as a community need to try to resolve.
There’s some great ideas from everyone. Not sure any of them have resonated with me as a drop-everything-and-do-that module, many seem to be pretty specific… and while that usually drives a great outcome for the person with the need, it doesn’t do much for the collective group.
0-20ma + HART is interesting, is there an equivalent module/shield you could point to?
cell module. I think this needs more brain power than I have - certainly a lot more software aspects than I could deal with.
IR thermal Array sensor. I agree, cool tech. What are the use cases you’re considering?
Not wanting to step on Brett’s toes …
Are you thinking of the GHI US3 modules? Or the other non-gadgeteer ones?
if non-GHI, what type of connectors- JST? Screw Terms? Something else?
if GHI, any reason the attached board wouldn’t do the trick? I didn’t label them - x1 = mainboard input, x2 x3 and x4 go to the sensors.
I would like an e-Paper display. Something like http://www.seeedstudio.com/wiki/E-ink_Display_Shield but for Gadgeteer, naturally!
Some of the apps I would like to build require very low power, and most displays are not. Also, I am very interested in sunlight-readable displays, and these will work.
I like the idea of @ njbuch. A simpler version is just a coin battery holder for a RTC battery to connect to the proper socket, that would make it easier to use the RTC, without having to figure out how to get a breakout board, solder up or mount a coin cell, etc. Does not seem a driver would be needed…
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I second the idea of a simple Coin Cell plug. This is a clear need. I will pre-order several.
To support the while Gadgeteer concept (easy to configure), how about pseudo sockets? I am now working on a FEZRaptor board, needing a pushbutton, and looking at buttons LDR1, and LDR0, and wondering how to connect them. Assuming I can read a schematic, I can see that they are connected to PA4 and PA24. I can also see what sockets they are wired to. If I want to use them, I can define them and use them, however, if I do not notice the sockets they are attached to, I can run into a problem if those sockets are already used. This might happen if I could not read a schematic, or did not notice the assignments.
Could a “pseudo socket” be built in software that could be added in the designer, to make the assignment, and to make it impossible to add a physical socket to the same address?
The same might go for the on-board LEDs…
Just an idea to make it easier for some to make progress quickly…
Another very simple device would be a small board with G-Plug sockets on both sides. This would allow you to plug a module directly into a socket without a cable. Plug an LED, Button, Joystick, etc. straight into the motherboard. It wold be great for prototyping and probably other applications as well.
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I’d like a module that could detect distance farther and more focused than what is possible with ultrasonic. Laser? Although, it also has to be safe to point at people… Probably asking you to create a sensor that doesn’t exist… 