I would like to run a board through batch pcb and not have and surface mount stuff…
is this the one i would order for that???
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8506
Hi Lee, no, that one is a .1" header. Get some via Samtec direct as samples: http://www.tinyclr.com/forum/topic?id=4533
Not sure if you’re using it as a 10 pin programming port (I’ve seen that on some things) or for your own Gadgeteer module. If the latter, the surface mount version is very easy to hand solder if you make the pads a little longer. I have a tutorial on my web site, but that’s down at the moment until power is restored here in Maryland.
I actually found the through-hole ones a bit annoying to solder due to the spacing of the tiny pins and the necessity of very small pads due to that spacing.
Pete
I agree with Pete. If you make the pads a little extra long, soldering the SMD sockets from Samtec is very easy, even for a relative newb like me. The pin pitch on the TH version is REALLY tiny.
are there eagle library files for the surface mount one sold here? (GHI guys??)
You should be able to get the pad layout from any of the existing GHI modules at:
http://gadgeteer.codeplex.com/
When I was working on my IR LED Array module, I just started with an existing board file, removed the components I didn’t need, and left the IDC socket pads on the board.
BTW - if you’re thinking about getting the sockets from GHI, I would strongly recommend the Samtec sockets (sorry, Gus), as they have more clearance around the pins. Samtec will send you samples on request, so you can try them out. See this thread for more info:
Feel free to download the eagle file from my MIDI module. I have the extended pads there.
Browse the latest source and look in the “Hardware” branch.
Much of Anne Arundel County in MD is still without power, so I can’t point you to the tutorial on my site. However, the trick to soldering the SMD version is to tin one pad and then hold the iron to it and the pin, mushing it into place. One you get alignment right (NEVER move the socket unless the solde ris completely liquid - you’ll pull up the pad otherwise), you can then solder each of the other pins starting with the opposite corner.
The samtec parts are easier to hand-solder than the ones Gus uses, as they have an iron-friendly undercut. With the extended pad, you can do either.
Pete
I would reiterate the comments on longer pads. Trying without the longer pads can be done, but it is much harder, you have to be perfect in placing the connector centred front-to-back and not let it move.