Some chips require different voltage levels that are above 3V3, so I guess it was added to the socket specification to include that family of devices.
Wow! I swear I have replied to your question yesterday. Now I donāt see it. Weird.
Something that community can start using for IoT projects right away.
I was hoping that whoever will take this challenge will bring out as much as possible from the board.
Being able to update firmware programmatically is a plus, but not a must.
In this specific case, this device is drawing 1/4 amp, which is I guess a mid/high-range for Gadgeteer type devices (more than simple sensors and less than, say a Cell modem).
Would there be any benefit to regulating the 5v down?
5V line in most cases is under used. That might help. Will increase BOM and size of the module as you are aware already.
Thanks; thatās what I was wondering about.
Thanks again for sharing the OSHPark. Will you be sharing Eagle files so that one can make a stencil?
As much as I try to solder 0603 (guessing thatās what R1 is) and smaller parts, I just canāt see to be able to get it right. Iāve never tried a Gadgeteer socket by hand, other than the part that you shared a while back with the longer pads.
@ mhectorgato - For me, at least, the key to hand soldering small SMD parts is a good magnifier, and a good iron tip.
That said, the boards I have coming (hopefully later this week or early next) have a lot more components than my IR LED Array board, so I ordered stencils and solder paste, and Iām planning to try my hand at reflow, though I havenāt decided the technique Iām going to use yet.
@ devhammer - Reflow is the way to go. I use the T962A oven. Works great for small runs.
I only have gerber files. Let me know if you need these.
For that board I would use a toothpick method. There is only two SMD components. One of them is a socket (can be soldered conventionally )
For me, reflow is the way to go! I went with lead free paste, only because Iām not the most careful and it seems safer in my mind. So temps need to be a bit higher, and some parts can melt if select one that canāt handle the higher temp (not that that has happened to me :whistle: )
Justin recommended a t962 - I got it on ebay (not this seller, just an example).
Perhaps for a superhuman this is simple, for this mere mortal, not so much 
I use OSHStencils and they support both Eagle and Gerber files.
Thanks
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@ mhectorgato - I will use OSH Stencils for my next boards. Never used them before. I know the guy was on the forum awhile back. Time to try.
@ Architect - OSH Stencils are great! i ordered 2 stencils last Friday and they shipped on Sunday!
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FWIW, which probably isnāt much, Iāve been happy with the service and product from them.
I did a bunch of research on this over the holidays, but havenāt yet pulled the trigger. This
The T962 isnāt very reliable by itself. However, thereās an upgrade kit you can get from here:
http://www.estechnical.co.uk/reflow-controllers/reflow-oven-controller-t962a-complete-upgrade-package
which supposedly makes it much more reliable and easier to control. They also sell the complete unit with upgrade, but you pay a premium for it being fully assembled.
The forums there are also a wealth of experience, mostly around ādonāt get unit Xā type stuff. 
Pete
Woah! Never heard of them. What a great find!
That might put me over the edge into doing reflow instead of hand-soldering some of these boards.
Thanks for the reference.
Pete
@ Pete Brown - Ignore the reviews and just use as is - they work really well.
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This has gone way off topicā¦but if anyone is in the Nashville area and wants to build their own reflow oven for about $100 Iām organizing a group buy/build. If you want to build remotely, I might can sell kits w/ the PCB also as a way to help get our volume up. Youād have to order your own oven. I should have a sign-up/pay page up sometime this weekend.
https://plus.google.com/118179179065879787276/posts/ZAkSpJCjmEn
Do not reply to this thread about this. Please do that on the G+ link above so not to take this thread even further off topic.
ok for those of who are working on the driver, I have an update for youā¦
after breaking my head against the wall :wall: for the passed week about why every time I stress the module the whole thing goes haywire I finally realized itās not always .NETMF faults, for some reason I thought it must be something with my coding, C# or NETMF is slow handling the serial com, but it turns out the damn AT Firmware was buggy go figureā¦ but I guess not a lot of people are actually stress testing this thing and that is the reason why I couldnāt find more info about my issue until today
Long story short get the following patch before you waste your time debuggingā¦
the Patch: read the readme on how to flash it.
http://bbs.espressif.com/download/file.php?id=213
the topic about the bug:
http://bbs.espressif.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=163#p632
note: even with the above patch installed I got a module reboot after 600 requests at 10ms eachā¦ so it seems something is still not 100%. more on this later, as I think it has something to do with debug.print().
but at 100ms apart the module seems to serve a whole lot more pages over a 1000 so farā¦
Edit: over 2500 pages Served so far at 100ms between each request
Edit: over 4200 pages Served so far at 100ms between each request
Edit: over 6000 pages Served so far at 100ms between each request
Edit: over 10000 pages Served so far at 10ms between each request
I will stop the test here and call the web server feature solidā¦
I will post my code after the clean up.
Cheers,
Jay.
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@ ALL - Did any get the message the ESP can not leave the flash mode ?
After flashing according to readme the ESP does not react anymore no response from it at all :wall:
I get that all the time no big dealā¦
if the ESP is not reacting that means you flashed the firmware at the wrong address pay attention to those 0x01000 and 0x3E000 and so onā¦
also if you flashed the latest ESPRESSIF firmware change your Terminal baud rate to 115200.
take a look at this snapshot:
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