Anyone worked with transmitting IR signals in RLP or maybe TincyCLR can handle It?
I have used signal generator (it has had a couple of names) to generate signals to control OOK 315MHz power switches. It was plenty fast enough for that.
@ Skewworks - signal generator, in blocking mode, with carrier frequency.
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Thanks Gus. I’m putting some of the outrageous number of boards I have into final projects 
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famous last words. I did that once as well, so I went and bought more 
@ Skewworks - How outrageous are we talking about here?
@ Mr. John Smith - Well, see, I wanted a new alarm clock…so I added a T35 and music module to a Spider II. Obviously that’s super bright for sleeping inches from your face so I spliced out a single wire on the G socket cable to jump it to a PWM pin and added activity and time based fading.
Wearing headphones to bed didn’t seem like a good idea either so I jumped the headphone pads to a 2.3W stereo amp and 2 thin speakers.
And since I wanted to easily reach over and turn on/off/snooze different alarms I wanted actual tactile buttons so I added the Adafruit 4x4 Trellis button pad with silicone membrane and dimmable individually addressed LEDs.
At that point figured it might as well be a remote too, right? So I added an IR receiver and transmitter.
Well if it’s gonna be a remote too I don’t want it chained to the wall 24/7 so I added LiPo+charger.
And if I can play music already, and use it as a remote, figured well I might as well throw on my bootloader so I can addd/change functionality via SD card. And throw on some basic games.
I’m still going back and forth about throwing in WiFi module for weather and streaming radio. I’ve only got one and I may want it in another project since I’m trying to use up the insane number of boards/modules I have.
When everything is done it will go in a laser cut acrylic case (mirrored front, dark black sides and back) with cradle. For now I used some spare clear acrylic that I hand cut for a POC box with open sides so I could switch between Lipo and DP power.
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[quote=“Skewworks”]When everything is done it will go in a laser cut acrylic case (mirrored front, dark black sides and back) with cradle./quote]
Surely, if you’re putting that much work into it you can come up with a more awesome enclosure than a laser cut acrylic box?? 
@ ianlee74 - I thought it was a fairly good choice. Got any cooler ideas for me?
Btw I’ve now determined the run time on this little bugger about 3hrs of continuous music in part to the power saving dim features. I’m sure I can get that figure higher once I’m to that point.
Current setup I have to push a button after every song for the next (from clock mode, media player isn’t written yet) which cycles up full power for 30sec each time.
I expected something a little more “Fallout” from you.
@ ianlee74 - like hooking up one of the old OLED screens to a Teensie 3.6 with FMV support and slapping it in a case modelled after the pipboywatch concept art from Fallout 4?
I’ve never actually played the game. Only watched my son play it a little several years back. So, my creativity is a little hindered here… But, here are a few good ones.
@ ianlee74 - oh those are just normal pipboys. The one on the left is what I’ll make. Concept art only, was never in the games and as far as I know no one’s made one yet.
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Nice! Much better than a laser cut box
@ Skewworks, check out Itead Studio’s 3D printing offers. It’s really good value and the prints are stunning from it. I think it is SLS so the surface finish is excellent and for my models for the wall switches they where smooth.
You can upload an STL model and it will give you an instant price.
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Actually, I think they’re SLA… :whistle:
@ Skewworks, you have a printer now don’t you? You can always ring your pal in the next state if you need something, too 
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SignalCapture and SignalGenerator don’t seem to be sufficient. 
EDIT: Nevermind, turning on Blocking worked. Oh boy, this is kinda sweet. Nice work GHI 8)
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@ Skewworks - the timing is off but we are fixing it for next release.