Hi Foekie,
I have the gear ratio set to ‘C’. And the speed you are seeing is only 50%.
I had it on ‘B’, but I found I had to apply at least 40% power to get it to move, and when it did move is was super fast.
I think I might gear it even lower, as I still need to apply 25% power or move for it to move.
The problem with the high ratio gearing is that it is harder to stop, as the motor’s momentum keeps the gears moving.
How is it possible that you are driving this fast with the “high torque” configuration? :o
That can’t be correct. It’s really really a LOT faster then mine on 100% forward.
I currently have it on Type C.
This is at 3V, but I am using 11.6V to power the 2 motors.
Ahhhh! I am using 6v to power the motors. That might explain :
How is this project going? I am thinking about pursuing a very similar route.
The same treads, chassis and gearbox (though possibly with the more efficient motors - only a few more $$). I was planning on using 2 Sharps, and potentially an ultrasonic as well.
The only real difference was that I am planning to use the DC Motor Driver from TinyCLR instead of a shield (like the FEZ or the Ardumoto that you’re using).
Mind if I ask a few questions?
Why did you choose the shield instead of the motor driver? Was it because it just plugged into the Domino?
Is there a reason why you picked the Ardumoto instead of the FEZ one?
Did you need any additional hardware that didn’t come with the kits? Like screws or standoffs?
How are you powering your bot? 2 battery packs?
Any other words of advice?
Thanks (and sorry for the barrage of questions ) Looking forward to some updates.
Hi RJ,
Also a question.
What kind of wheel encoders are you going to use? I have been looking at this gearbox for ages but can’t figure out a clean way of adding encoders.
I’m thus looking at using the the same base and tracks, but with 2 FAULHABER motors with integrated encoders…
Thanks,
Errol
Erol,
Are you going to use these motors with the Tamiya gearbox? Or direct drive with their gearbox attached?
I found one here: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16279
It has a 141:1 gearbox and a 90 degree output. I wonder if the output shaft is the shape as the drive sprocket in the tread set.
Thanks.
(can’t you all tell I’m still in sponge mode - trying to absorb as much as I can!!)
mhectorgato,
That is the motor I want to use… 
Will use with it’s gearbox and 90 deg output.
It’s shaft is 3mm, like the tamia, but not hex as the tamia gearbox.
I plan to replace the round shaft of the FAULHABER with a hex shaft like the tamia. Should be simple switch, when i can find a 0.9mm allen key…
Thanks
PS. See [url]http://www.robotroom.com/FaulhaberGearmotor.html[/url]
Gotcha.
So for the 2 encoders per motor: are you going to use both or just one? Will these (A and B on the image of the connector on that RobotRoom.com page) just plug into a FEZ digital pin?
Could they be used on a analog pin and be multiplexed (with resistors I believe) so that you’re not using up 4 pins?
I guess the purpose is to track the “exact” distance traveled. This might be something helpful to me, one of my future fun projects I could see would be to map out a room.
So many choices… That’s half the fun for me - to analyze the different options and come up with a plan, and then see how well it worked out.
BTW - Where did (or will) you get these from? I found 1 source, but they are used.
The two outputs are 90 degrees out of phase. Thus they can tell you the direction the motor is turning. IE. If the motor is turning one direction then A will rise before B rises, and A will fall before B falls. If it turns the other way then B will change before A changes.
Also, if you only sense the level of one pin then you have 141 pulses per revolution.
If you sense the rising and falling edges then you will get 282 edges per revolution.
If you use both lines and sense the edges then you will get 564 edges per revolution.
So it all depends on the resolution you want.
I bought mine two years ago new from www.shopeio.com but they don’t stock them any more… 
Hi Errol,
I have stopped working on the Tank project. I’ve moved on to a larger RC car.
I used the motor shield as it was easier to use, as I had issues using the chip on its own.
I would definitely use motors with encoders is possible. But you can always use encoders that attach to the gearbox for the tank, but it will require a bit more work and may get a little bulky.
Good luck with your project.
Hey RJ,
What kind of RC car are you using? Hobby grade?
Hi Chris, I’m using the nissan kingcab RC car. It’s hobby grade, it was released back in the eighties, so I’ve decided to give it another lease on life.
I’ve gutted it and even replaced the shell, the only remaining parts are the chassis and the motor (which I will eventually swap out with a brushless one.)
I’ll post up some details when it gets to a stage worth talking about.
Gotta love Tamiya! You might want to post in the RC car thread. We can talk about it there to avoid clogging this thread up.