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DaisyLink w/ an Extender Module


#1

First let me say that trying to figure out how to implement DaisyLink is probably going to give me a brain tumor… I promise if I ever get it working I’ll write up a simple explanation of how to do it.

My current question… From the module builder’s guide (pg 39-41) it shows that INIT-IN and INIT-OUT are two different signals that coordinate the activation of the pull-up resistors for the I2C lines. Since the Extender module has two sockets, I assumed that it was build with DaisyLink in mind. However, it seems that everything for all pins on the module are just straight through and therefore there’s no way to control independently the pull-ups for pin #3.

Am I misreading the specs for DaisyLink or will I need two Extender modules to implement one DaisyLink module? It seems that there should be 11 pads on the Extender - a 3a & a 3b.


#2

Does no one else understand DaisyLink yet or is my question not clear?


#3

Your question is clear. :slight_smile:

I would think you do need two extender modules since all the pins are not passed through a daisy chain module.

You might be able to do a little trace cutting and yellow wire routing and use one extender module.


#4

The extender can be use to mate two cables to make a longer one or you can use the headers to breadboard, measure or attach.

If you want to build a DaisyLink module on a bread/proto board you need 2 extenders, 1 to bring in the I/O from the main board and one to connect other modules on the chain.

However if both your modules are on proto boards you could run 10 wires between them to the same effect.


#5

Thanks guys.

I may just do this. If the second socket on the Extender can’t be used for DaisyLink dev then I can’t think of any practical purpose for it. Am I missing something here? Gus, what did you guys have in mind?

Consider this my request to have the Extender v2 add a 3b pad. 3a & 3b could be bridged by the developer if they do have some need for these to be straight through. Perhaps for maximum flexibility there should be an “u” (upstream) and “d” (downstream) pad for each pin.


#6

I did it and documented it as I went. Should work out well and save a lot of breadboard space by not having to use two Extenders.