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3M Connector Eagle parts


#1

Do any of you fine people have a link to a Eagle library for a 2mm header from 3M

http://uk.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M/953230-2000-AR-PR/?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduj8GJDqj5Fn3zXJvfg69wuSWaN1tanb1jtU%2FbRNgsMx8A%3D%3D

Or am i going to have to get my crayons out and start creating myself…


#2

I’ve had really good luck creating footprints myself in Eagle. I’ve yet to create a footprint that didn’t work (knock on wood). Just make sure you watch the values on the datasheet very carefully, and it helps a LOT to have the part you’re laying out around so you can print out your footprint and put your part on it to see if it fits.


#3

@ godefroi - Yeah i bit the bullet and started creating it myself, printing it out it looks ok so i think i’ll just stumble along :slight_smile:


#4

If you’re really nervous about it, the slow, sure way is to have a board made (or etch one yourself!) with the footprint on it and do a test-solder. There’s probably someone not TOO far from you that could either etch a one-off for you or mill a test PCB for not too much money.

Etching at home is very easy, it’s only the cleanup of the etchant that is a problem.


#5

Ammonium Sulphate is a much easier clean up than Ferric Chloride, and nowhere near as messy. There’s also a guy on youtube who uses Hydrogen Peroxide (from hair colouring) and Hydrogen Chloride (go to ~3:55 in the vid) wY6oiEhyfIc. I’ve done a few little carrier boards at home of late using PRess-n-peel blue paper, works well to confirm pad sizing as @ godefroi says


#6

Is it really acceptable to dump hydrochloric acid down the drain like that?

I always used ferric chloride, and it’s nasty stuff.


#7

Properly diluted, I wouldn’t expect there to be any problems in that quantity. He appears to be diluting it well. I believe HCL is one of the main components of many tile & drain cleaners.


#8

Tile cleaner is usually muriatic acid? I don’t know my acids well, and I never took a chemistry class. Seems like a very easy method, though. I wouldn’t expect to do any very fine pitch parts that way, though.


#9

I’m not advocating doing what he does. I personally don’t dispose of any of my reacted chemicals except in the council cleanup process, but with reacted Ammonium Sulphate (what I use) you can actually dispose by adding to a swimming pool because the resultant chemical is a weak copper sulphate solution, visibly blue, but in a big volume of pool water just helps keep the algae under control.


#10

For cleaning grout off of tile & bricks, yes. For cleaning mold & mildew, I believe it’s often HCL.