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I got this from SF

Would be great if it worked right. The x pot is not centered and requires like a 30deg left stick before registering change and then the change is really big. Going straight upstick, also changes X full left which is weird, so must be gnd’ing some how. Anyone used more high quality breakout joy sticks? I could think it was just a defective pot, but other comments suggest it is a quality issue that would not be overcome by just a replacement of the same thing. As it is, I can’t overcome these issues with software. TIA.


That’s set up for 5v, fez is 3.3v


[quote]That’s set up for 5v, fez is 3.3v

Yes but the fix should be easy, cut the 5V trace and reconnect it to 3.3V line instead


I will try that. Maybe will have better results.


ahh. Works better with right voltage. Glad did not fry fez an ports :-[

I can cut trace, but not sure how I would resolder a wire onto trace.

I was thinking instead to cut the 5v male pin and then jumper 3v to 5v header pin from top.


For jumpering traces 30AWG wire wrap wire is your friend. Use your soldering iron to strip it, i.e. melt the insulation off the ends, as it is very hard to strip. Tack it to one trace route it to the other trace, holding it in place with a drop of super glue, then solder to the second trace.


You do not need to :slight_smile: Just follow the trace and see where it connect ton the joystick and use that pad :wink:

William is tired today :smiley:

Option #2: cut both voltage pins on the shield (5V and 3.3V) then wire 3.3V from FEZ to the shield